Ankoo anglerfish

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Anglerfish, angler fish (ankoo)

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: All winter
***** Category: Animal and Humanity

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Explanation




ankoo 鮟鱇 (あんこう) anglerfish, goosefish, monkfish
Lophiomus setigerus. "frog fish"
biwagyo 琵琶魚（びわぎょ）"biwa fish" (because its form is like the musical instrument biwa lute.
roobagyo 老婆魚（ろうばぎょ）"fish like an old woman"
kaseigyo, kaseiuo 華臍魚（かせいぎょ）
jugyo 綬魚（じゅぎょ）
The name "anglerfish" derives form the way this fish gets his food. He opens his huge mouth and puts out a bit of the tounge, that is like a bait for smaller fish. When a smaller fish comes for the bait, ankoo closes his own big mouth and swallows the prey in one gulp.

In Japan, two varieties of this fish are eaten.
hon ankoo ホンアンコウ 本鮟鱇. ki ankoo （キアンコウ 黄鮟鱇）
yellow goosefish, Lophius litulon
and
kutsu ankoo クツアンコウ. 苦津鮟鱇 blackmouth goosefish
Lophius setigerus Vahl




ankoo no tsurushigiri 鮟鱇の吊し切り（あんこうのつるしぎり）
cutting an anglerfish while hanging it up
The fish is too soft to be cut on a chopping board.
The fish is hung up on a triangular stand, with a metal hook in his lower jaw, at the beach in winter and cut with a few skillful choppings. The "seven vital parts 鮟鱇の七つ道具" of the fish are chopped off until only the jaw and bones are left.
This is often now used as a tourist attraction in Ibaraki, whith a tasting of the soup right on the beach.
Ankoo has to be prepared quite fast, since otherwise it gets a taste of ammoniak.

I have seen this cutting performance many times on TV, it is a rather exciting, joyful event. One fisher family whithout a son to take over is even training their daughter to perform this cutting.


The fish spawns in november, when it also tastes best.
Here is some KIGO food with ankoo:

ankoonabe, ankoo nabe 鮟鱇鍋 (あんこうなべ)
hodgepodge soup with anko
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
..... ankoojiru 鮟鱇汁（あんこうじる） anko soup
Often spiced with white miso and then the liver is stirred into the soup too.
The skin is also chopped and added. Vegetables like radish, leek, shiitake and then tofu may be added.


ankoo zoosui 鮟鱇雑炊（あんこうぞうすい）
thin rice soup with anko
. . . CLICK here for Photos !



ankoo is a deep sea fish without scales, caught only in the winter months. It looks quite horrifying with its large mouth and many sharp teeth, but the body is quite soft and delicious.



In Japan there is a saying about these two special fish:

the globefish from the south,
the anglerfish from the north

南の河豚、北の鮟鱇
minami no fugu, kita no ankoo


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Local names for this fish in Japan, more than 20

アンコウ 東京都、静岡県、高知県、富山県
アゴ 和歌山県 / キアンコウ 宮城県
アゴウオ 和歌山県 / クツアンコウ 神奈川県
アゴウヲ 和歌山県 / クツアンコオ 神奈川県
アファー 沖縄県 / ゴウオ 和歌山県
アンコ 新潟県、富山県、高知県、和歌山県 / ハタアンゴ 鹿児島県
アンゴ 京都府、和歌山県 / ピーアン 福島県
アンコオ 東京都、静岡県、高知県、富山県 / ピアン 福島県
アンゴウ 大阪府 / ビワキョ
アンコモチ 和歌山県 / ミヅアンコウ 宮城県
エドアンコオ 高知県
カマギョ



hime ankoo 姫鮟鱇（ヒメアンコウ）"princess ankoo"
Lophiodes naresi or Lophiodes moseleyi
and
nodoguro hime ankoo 喉黒姫鮟鱇（ノドグロヒメアンコウ)
"with a black throat"


medama ankoo 目玉鮟鱇（メダマアンコウ)
Bigeye goosefish


mino ankoo 蓑鮟鱇（ミノアンコウ）
Lophiid fimbriatus


shimofuri hana ankoo 霜降花鮟鱇（シモフリハナアンコウ）
Flowery goosefish


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ankoo hoonoo hoochoo shiki 鮟鱇奉納庖丁式
ceremony to cut an ankoo

The fish is cut with the use of a swordlike knife and special metal chopsticks 真魚箸 and the priest is not allowed to touch it with his hands during the performance, so as to keep the food ritually clean before serving it to the deity. The "seven parts" are carefully cut out and arranged on a plate in the form of the big dipper star.



at the shrine Oarai Isozaki Jinja, Ibaraki
茨城県東茨城郡大洗町磯浜町6890 . 大洗磯前神社

The shrine was founded in 856 A.D., the main hall of the shrine was destroyed in a fire 400 years ago. It was later reconstructed by the lord Tokugawa Mitsukuni in 1690. The main gate is 16 meters high and has a splendid first impression.

. . . CLICK here for Photos of the shrine !


They hold lessons for cooks to learn this special ritual way of cutting ankoo and other fish in the old, ceremonial way.

. WASHOKU
the "Way of the Kitchen Knife" 　


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The Seven Parts of an ankoo
鮟鱇の七つ道具

(actually, they are eight)

liver 「肝」, ovaries「ぬの（卵巣）」, fins「ひれ」, gills「えら」, stomach「水ぶくろ（胃）, skin 」「皮」
and

"willow" meat from the jaws 「柳（頬の身）」
"big body" meat from the tail fin「大身（尾の部分）」
These two parts are the real "meat" of the fish and therefore taken as just one item.

These are all taken out and used for the soup.

The "water sack" stomach is slightly boiled and marinated with vinegar.


"nanatsu doogu, the seven tools"
is an expression mostly for craftsmen, when all necessary tools are together for work. It was also used for a samurai when all his necessary equipment, like sword, bow and arrow, helmet and suit of armor was put together.
In the Muromachi period, this was called "nanatsu mono 七つ物, the seven things".



external LINK with great photos of these parts
http://www.zukan-bouz.com/fish/ankou/kiankou.html



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Anglerfish are the members of the order Lophiiformes.
They are bony fish named for their characteristic mode of predation, wherein a fleshy growth from the fish's head (the esca or illicium) acts as a lure; this is considered analogous to angling.

Some anglerfish are pelagic (live in the open water), while others are benthic (bottom-dwelling). Some live in the deep sea (e.g. Ceratiidae) and others on the continental shelf (e.g. the frogfishes Antennariidae and the monkfish/goosefish Lophiidae). They occur worldwide. Pelagic forms are most laterally (sideways) compressed whereas the benthic forms are often extremely dorsoventrally compressed (depressed) often with large upward pointing mouths.

One family Lophiidae is of commercial interest with fisheries found in the in north-western Europe, eastern North America, Africa and the Far East. In Europe and North America, the tail meat of fish of the genus Lophius (known as goosefish (North America) or monkfish), is widely used in cooking and is often compared to lobster tail in taste and texture. In Asia, especially Korea and Japan, it is a delicacy.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !


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not kigo

ankimo あんきも / あん肝 . あんぎも liver of the anko
This is quite a large part of the fish. It is steamed, a speciality when drinking sake.
Ankimo, the "foie gras" of seafood. 海のフォアグラ

It tasts good with a bit of ponzu sauce and grated radish.

. . . CLICK here for Photos !


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アンコウ


choochin ankoo 提灯鮟鱇 "lantern angler fish"
Himantolophus groenlandicus
Atlantic footballfish, football fish
ankoo no choochin アンコウの提灯(ちょうちん)
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


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some combinations with ANKOO


ankoogata あんこがた【鮟鱇形】あんこうがた "form of an ankoo"
Said for a very fat sumo ringer who walks with his huge stomach protruding.




ankoomusha, ankoo musha 鮟鱇武者 "Anko Samurai"
ankoozamurai 鮟鱇侍（あんごうざむらい）
One who is bragging a lot but does not live up to his stories.



ankoo no emachi あんこうのえまち【鮟鱇の餌待ち】
"waiting for pray" like an ankoo
A lazy person who stands around with his mouth wide open.
A day laborer who is waiting for a job.
also called
tachinboo たちんぼう【立ちん坊】 "just standing around"



ankoo no tsu ni museta yoo na hito
鱇の唾に噎せたような人　（あんこうのつにむせたようなひと）
standing around with an open mouth like an ankoo



ankoo no machi-gui 鮟鱇の待ち食い（あんこうのまちぐい）
waiting for food "like an ankoo"
and eating only what is placed in front of you.
Also someone who does not give anything but waits for others to give him some food.


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Ibaraki prefecture


ankoonabe, ankoo nabe 鮟鱇鍋 (あんこうなべ)
hodgepodge soup with anko
see above.


あんこうのとも酢 ankoo with vinegar
The liver is boiled with sugar, miso and vinegar.
tomosu ae とも酢和え　marinated with vinegar
. . . CLICK here for Photos !



dobujiru どぶ汁 soup with ankoo meat of all parts
First the liver is put in a cast-iron pot, then all the other parts too and simmered without much added water. It has a rather strong taste.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


ankoo no kara-age 鮟鱇　唐揚げ / アンコウ唐揚
deep-fried anko pieces
. . . CLICK here for Photos !



ankoo no honezake, hone sake 鮟鱇の骨酒
bones of ankoo immersed in ricewine
A popular way of drinking with the bones of fish.


. WASHOKU
Ibaraki prefecture (Ibaragi) 　


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Worldwide use


Der Seeteufel (ankoo, "devil of the sea")
ist eine Spezialität von Nord-Ibaraki.
Er wird in einem Dreiecksgestell aufgehängt und am Strand mit wenigen Messerschnitten ausgenommen – eine Attraktion für die Touristen in den Wintermonaten. Die Seeteufel-Leber in einem heißen Eintopf ist eine kulinarische Delikatesse, aber auch eine Suppe aus anderen Seeteufel-Teilen (dobujiru ) wärmt nicht nur angenehm den Körper in der kalten Jahreszeit, sondern schmeckt auch vorzüglich.

ankoo nabe ... Seeteufel-Eintopf


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Monkfish (or headfish)
is the English name of a number of types of fish in the northwest Atlantic, most notably the species of the anglerfish genus Lophius and the angelshark genus Squatina. The term is also occasionally used for a European sea monster more often called a sea monk.
Monkfish is the most common English name for the genus Lophius in the northeast Atlantic but goosefish is used as the equivalent term on the eastern coast of North America.

©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !


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Things found on the way


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HAIKU and SENRYU





あんかうに一膳めしの行灯哉　　
ankoo ni ichizen meshi no andon kana

one dish
with anglerfish and rice
and one shaded lamp . . .

The cut marker KANA is at the end of line 3.

. Masaoka Shiki　正岡子規　 .


Andon, choochin
Japanese Lanterns and Lamps


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鮟鱇の骨まで凍ててぶちきらる
ankoo no hone made itete buchi-kiraru
ankō-no hone-made itete buchikiraru

this angler fish
feeing chilled to the bone
is (finally) cut to pieces

Kato Shuson 加藤楸邨 Katoo Shuuson

We can imagine the author in 1949 just after the war, he himself just recovering from an illness, at the cold beach in the cold winter wind, he himself frozen to the bone.
Or he was lying ill in his bed, just thinking of a scene he had observed earlier in his life.


Kato, Shuson Kato (1905-1993)


This haiku has caused many speculations about its "real" meaning.
Here are some questions that have come up.
Japanese Reference


Was the fish really frozen to the bone and put on a chopping bord to be cut with a large butcher knife used to cut frozen meat?
Were only the bones then "hacked (buchi-kiru)" by the knife?
(butsugiri is a verb used for cutting meat or fish into smaller pieces, as opposed to cutting slices for sashimi and sushi.)
The first line in normal grammar would read "ankoo ga ... "
The saijiki tells us that the use of the passive verb form "buchikiraru" implies a kind of pitifull compassion and pain with the fate of the fish (mono no aware). The author feels like the fish itself.
The choice of the verb ITEru, feeling chilled or freezing, and not KOORU (used for frozen food) also gives this a human touch.


Hacking the whole frozen fish to pieces would be a very uncommon way of slaughtering this kind of fish with its hard bones and very soft meat, and where would the poet have to be to watch such a situation?
Maybe at the shop window of a fishmonger?
Ankoo is too big to put into the home freezer of a fisherman.
So was this observed at some fish market?
Do they offer frozen ankoo bones for sale?

or

Was the fish prepared in the normal way as hanging on the beach and cut into pieces in the fashion of tsurushigiri? And after the fish had been cut in the normal way and the bones frozen in the breeze on the beach, they are now cut on a chopping board? Is this the "last scene" of the tsurushigiri cutting performance?
(This seems the most common interpretation of this haiku.)


Or is this related the use of the figure of speech for a cold day outside, when a human watches the scene of the fish soup preparation, and a kind of personification of how the poor fish must feel cold also?
kooru hodo no samusa 凍るほど寒?

Is this a haiku-rendered description of the post-war situation of Japan after Hiroshima and Nagasaki?
(Some modern HP even quote it with respect to the situation of the much debated Yamba Dam Project in 2009.)
The Yamba dam project


More questions then answers.


This haiku does not simply describe a dead frozen fish straight from the refrigerator, like a salmon, taken out and violently hacked to pieces.
Through the choice of the ANKOO, which plays a special role in Japanese food culture through the way it needs to be processed, it gives the whole scene on the beach a "human" touch.
I want to express this in my translation.




. thoughts on : Beauty, Tao and Haiku 　


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鮟鱇の外の吹雪を忘れさせ　　　　
ankoo no soto no fubuki o wasuresase

this anglerfish
lets me forget about
the blizzard outside

Nakamura Raionboo 中村 雷音坊


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There is also an anonymous senryu about the Chinese character for this fish

鮟 . . . 魚　安

魚偏に安いと書く春のこと
uohen ni yasui to kaite haru no koto

fish radical on the left side
cheap on the right side ...
this is spring

when the fish does not taste good any more in spring and is not eaten any longer.


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more haiku with anko

鮟鱇の　愚にして　咎（トガ）は　なかりけり　　　村上鬼城

鮟鱇の　口ばかりなり　流しもと　　　　　　　　　高浜虚子

とめどなき　大鮟鱇の　涎かな　　　　　　　　　　岡田耿陽

鮟鱇の　泣寝入りして　買はれけり　　　　　　　　堀口星眠


ankoonabe

鮟鱇鍋　河豚の苦説も　なかりけり　　　　　　　　正岡子規

鮟鱇の　肝　うかみ出し　鮟鱇鍋　　　　　　　　　高浜虚子

ほかの部屋　大いに笑ふ　鮟鱇鍋　　　　　　　　　深川正一郎

鮟鱇鍋　酔の壮語を　盾として　　　　　　　　　　小林康治

ひとりごち　ひとり荒べる　鮟鱇鍋　　　　　　　　森澄雄

鮟鱇鍋　箸もぐらぐら　煮ゆるなり　　　　　　　　高浜虚子

友と居て　妻を疎んず　鮟鱇鍋　　　　　　　　　　高橋沐石


水原秋櫻子・加藤楸邨・山本健吉：日本大歳時記
（講談社、1996）

鮟鱇を　ふりさけ見れば　厨かな　　　　　　　　　其角

鮟鱇のさかさまに　目は蘭けにけり　　　　　　　　護物

鮟鱇や　かげ膳　据えて　猪口　一つ　　　　　　　飯田蛇笏

鮟鱇も　わが身の業も　煮ゆるかな　　　　　　　　久保田万太郎

舟釣瓶　ぶっかけられし　鮟鱇かな　　　　　　　　阿波野青畝

鮟鱇を吊し　魚屋　夕景色　　　　　　　　　　　　山口青邨

とめどなき　大鮟鱇の　涎かな　　　　　　　　　　岡田耿陽

鮟鱇や　店に生きゐて　日暮れなる　　　　　　　　中川宋淵

鮟鱇を剥くに　鎮めの水を打つ　　　　　　　　　　菅裸馬

身を削がれゆき　鮟鱇の眼ありけり　　　　　　　　牧野蓼蓼

鮟鱇の吊し切とは　いたましや　　　　　　　　　　鈴木真砂女

イエスより軽く　鮟鱇を吊りさげる　　　　　　　　有馬朗人

鮟鱇の泣寝入りして　買はれけり　　　　　　　　　堀口星眠

人中に鮟鱇　吊られ　したたれり　　　　　　　　小林康治

鮟鱇の子といふものを　喰はされぬ　　　　　　　　星野麦丘人

肛門を見せて　鮟鱇　ならびけり　　　　　　　　　森田峠

吊るされて　夜の　鮟鱇　ただよへり　　　　　　　伊藤通明

鮟鱇の吊るされてゐて　笑いけり　　　　　　　　　飯山修

凍てきれずあり　鮟鱇の　いびつ顔　　　　　　　　田中敦子

鮟鱇のよだれの先の凍てにけり　　　　　　　　　小田実希次

source : www.ami-yacon.jp


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Related words


Blowfish (fugu) Japan. .. Puffer fish, Globefish, Swellfish


***** WASHOKU : Regional Japanese Dishes

***** WASHOKU : FISH and SEAFOOD SAIJIKI


***** . Biwa 琵琶 lute .



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Tsukudani

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Simmering in sweetened soy sauce (tsukudani)

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: Topic
***** Category: Humanity

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Explanation

tsukudani つくだに (佃煮) simmering in sweetened soy sauce, using mirin, sugar and some spices to make it a bit hot. It does not have a watery sauce and tastes quite strong.
It has been used since olden times as a kind of food preserve. It started with the fisherman from Tsukuda island, who prepared the leftovers of fish in this way. They came originally from the Osaka area and Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu settled them at Tsukuda island.
Tsukudani is a speciality of Tokyo.

. . . CLICK here for Photos !

These preparations come with different flavors for each season.
Fish, shells, clams, meat, vegetables or seaweeds can be used.
kisetsu no tsukudani 季節のつくだ煮


kai no tsukudani 貝の佃煮　shellfish boiled in sweetened soy sauce

Tsukudani are often put into onigiri rice balls.

I remember eating ants tsukudani, have to check it out.


sansho no tsukudani 山椒のつくだ煮
Japanese pepper, "Mountain pepper" sanshoo


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tsukudani kaidoo つくだに街道, つくだ煮街道
Road of Tsukudani
Store specializing in this food


at Aichi
愛知県知多郡美浜町大字古布字枡池６番地の３


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Tsukudani is a Japanese simmered dish flavored with soy sauce and sugar, and so on. It's a great side dish to serve with hot steamed rice. When you have leftover kombu from making dashi broth, try making tsukudani.

Tsukudani is usually very salty, and it's good to eat on hot steamed rice.

Kombu no Tsukudani Recipe is here:
source : 　japanesefood.about.com / Setsuko Yoshizuka


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Tsukudani is small seafood, meat or seaweed that has been simmered in soy sauce and mirin. High osmotic pressure preserves the ingredients. Its name originates from Tsukudajima, the island (in present-day Chūō, Tokyo) where it was first made in the Edo period.
Many kinds of tsukudani are sold. Traditionally made tsukudani is preservable and has been favored as a storable side dish in Japanese kitchen since the Edo period.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !


„Eingekochtes von der Insel Tsukuda“.
Mit gesüßter Sojasauce und Gewürzen.

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Tsukuda-shima Tsukuda Island

Tsukuda island is a low, sandy islet at the mouth of the Sumida river, which runs through the heart of Edo. Apart from a few patches of trees and small vegetable gardens, the entire island is occupied by a thriving village of fishermen and boat pilots, who make their living from the commerce of Edo Bay.

This island is located in an ideal spot for people who make their living from the sea. It is located right at the mouth of the Sumida river -- the largest waterway in Edo. From here, small boats can easily make their way up the river and through the network of canals to most of the neighborhoods in downtown Edo. To the south, deep water channels extend out into Edo bay. The docks of Shiba and Tsukiji are nearby, so large boats can anchor near the island as they wait to be unloaded.

The volume of goods brought into Edo is so large that no single port could possibly handle it. Although the most important cargoes are unloaded at the docks of Shiba, Tsukiji, Minato and Shinagawa, a lot of ships unload their cargoes directly onto small barges and takase-bune as they lie at anchor here, in the lee of Tsukuda island. The smaller boats then carry the goods through Edo's network of canals and waterways to small, riverside wharves, known as kashi.

Because of its location, Tsukuda island is a convenient spot for barges and small boats to stop while waiting for the large ships to start unloading. The beaches are almost always crowded with small boats, and the few chaya (teahouses) on the island are filled with customers chatting, gossipping and sipping their tea as they wait.

In addition to these visitors, the island is home to a thriving village of fishermen. The residents of Tsukuda island came to Edo in the mid-1600s at the request of the Shogun. Edo needed to increase the supply of fish to the city, because its population was growing too fast for the existing fishermen to keep up with demand. To convince people to leave their homes in western Japan and move to Edo, the Shogun offered them the special right to fish anywhere in Edo Bay that they want. Entire villages of fishermen accepted the offer, and moved to Edo, establishing large villages in the "Edo-mae" area, including one on Tsukuda island and one on the other side of the Sumida river, in Fukagawa.

Although these fishermen are not allowed to sell their products to the Shogun and his court, they do supply a large share of the fish bought by average citizens. Edo Bay is a rich source of all kinds of seafood, and the fishermen of Tsukuda island have developed many different methods of catching each type. Solitary fish, such as tai (red snapper) are usually caught with a regular fishing line. Other fish can be caught the same way, but it is usually more effective to use nets

The fishermen have developed a wide variety of different nets to catch different types of fish. Triangular nets on the end of long forked poles are used to catch fish that live in the mud at the bottom o the bay, such as hirame (flatfish) or tako (octopus). Small fish that swim in schools, for example iwashi (sardines), can be caught by just one person using a throwing net. But in order to catch larger fish, like saba (mackerel) and katsuo (bonito), the fishermen have to use huge nets, and work together in a group. Sometimes they use nets that are so big, they have to work in large groups, to haul the nets back in to shore.

Most of the fish can be caught right here in Edo Bay, but some of the largest types, such as maguro (tuna), can only be caught out in the open sea. Once in a while, fishing fleets will leave the bay for several days at a time to chase the huge schools of tuna. They may even attempt to catch a whale. When they are successful, these ocean expeditions can be very profitable. A big load of tuna or whale meat will bring a great price in the fishmarkets of Nihonbashi. However, fishing boats are not as well built as cargo ships; storms can blow up at any time out in the open ocean, so long trips to sea can be very risky. Even here in the Bay, life for most fishermen is difficult and dangerous.

Although fishing is the traditional work of the people from Tsukuda island, many of them have now taken new professions. Because of all the ships that anchor in this area to unload their cargoes, there is always demand for experienced boat pilots, who can transport goods from the large, seagoing vessels to the canal-side markets in different parts of the city. Other people, like Gyotaro, work in the city transporting people from place to place by boat -- as a sort of a "water taxi driver".
source : 　www.us-japan.org/edomatsu


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. WASHOKU
midorimushi no tsukudani みどりむしの佃煮
Euglena tsukudani with various flavors 　
yuugurena ユーグレナ Euglena



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Worldwide use

das Tsukudani
in Sojasoße gekochte Meeresfrüchte

Variante der haltbaren Zubereitung durch knuspriges Einkochen in Sojasoße und Zucker.

Baby Bienen Tsukudani


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Things found on the way


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HAIKU

つくだにの蝗となって鬚のこす　　
tsukudani no inago to natte hige o kosu

to make tsukudani
out of grashoppers ...
strain the whiskers　　　　　

Ishida Tokiji 石田時次



kigo for all autumn

inago 蝗, 稲子 ( いなご) 螽 grasshopper
catching grashoppers, inago tori 蝗捕り（いなごとり）
grashoppers on sticks, inagogushi 蝗串（いなごぐし）
The animal is about 3 cm long. Its long hind legs help it to jump well, but it does not sing in autumn. To catch the animal was not not only done to clear the rice paddies of an unwanted eater, but also to prepare the delicious tsukudani for the farmers, since it contains a lot of fat and protein.
Grashoppers are also eaten in other parts of the world.
inago no kushiage, sticks with fried grashoppers イナゴは串揚げ
CLICK here for photos !




Konchuu Ryoori, konchu ryori
Insects as human food ... a chapter of its own!



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Related words

***** WASHOKU : COOKING METHODS

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Tsukemono Pickles

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Tsukemono 漬物　漬け物 Japanese Pickles

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How to make tsukemono

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Kasuzuke (粕漬け), also Kasu-zuke is a Japanese dish made by pickling fish or vegetables in the lees (residual yeast and other precipitates) of sake, known as sake kasu.

History and variations
Kasuzuke was made in the Kansai region as early as the Nara Period, twelve hundred years ago. Vegetable kasuzuke, known as shiru-kasu-zuke or Narazuke was originally made with white melon, but later with cucumbers, eggplants, uri, and pickling melons. It was made by Buddhist monks, and used by samurai as imperishable wartime food. During the Edo period of the 17th century, a sake dealer promoted it widely. The dish spread throughout Japan and remains popular today. Carrots, watermelon rind, and ginger may also be pickled in this way.

To make shiru-kasu-zuke vegetables are pickled in a mixture of sake-kasu (in paste or sheet form), mirin, sugar, and salt. Optionally, ginger and citrus may be added. Pickling time ranges from one to three years, with the younger pickles consumed locally in the summer and the older pickles, having turned an amber color, distributed as Narazuke. To make fish kasuzuke, sugar is sometimes omitted, and Sake, soy sauce, pepper and/or ginger may be added. Typical fish include cod, salmon, butterfish and tai snapper. Brining time is one to several days.

Vegetable kasuzuke is eaten as pickles, and is sweet and mild. Fish kasuzuke may be eaten raw or grilled over rice. The flavor is mild but pungent.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !

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Amazu shooga あまずしょうが(甘酢生姜)
sweet and sour pink ginger vinegar pickles
hajikami suzuke はじかみ（薑／椒) hajikami is a type of ginger
"blushing ginger pickle"
gari がり for sushi , or with fried fish
hajikami comes from leaf ginger (hashooga　葉しょうが）
端赤　。。。　はじかみ　。。。 edges are red
hajikami is a kigo for autumn

shooga no mazu-zuke 生姜の真酢漬 Eingelegter Ingwer fuer Sushi




asazuke 浅漬け lightly-pickled vegetables
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
kurz eingelegtes, schnell eingelegtes Gemüse



. WASHOKU
gooko 板井原ごうこ daikon radish pickles 　
Itaibara, Chizu town, Tottori




. fukujinzuku 福神漬け
Pickles for the Seven Gods of Good Luck .


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Kamakurazuke, Kamakura tsuke 鎌倉漬 / 鎌倉漬け
tamariboshi たまり干し pickled in tamari shoyu and dried in the sun
mostly for fish pieces, like sardines (nishin)
a kind of fish sushi
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Kamakurazuke from the Arita area 有田 Wakayama



. WASHOKU
kiku kabura 菊かぶら / 菊蕪 "chrysanthemum turnip"
from Kamekura, Kyoto


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Narazuke, Nara-zuke 奈良漬
Gourd pickles
In Saketreber (Sake-Maische) Eingelegtes.
(sakekasu, Saketreber sind die Rueckstände bei der Sakeherstellung)
Eingelegtes nach Nara-Art





Narazuke seisu 奈良漬製す (ならづけせいす)
making Narazuke pickles
kigo for late summer


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Nozawana-zuke 野沢菜漬 nozawanazuke
pickled green leafy vegetable
Vegetable from Nozawa hot spring, Nagano.
The leaves are quite large and can be used to wrap food.

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Rakkyoo らっきょう(辣韮) pickled shallots
speciality of Tottori
often served with curry rice and beef dishes.

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. WASHOKU
orizuke おり漬け pickles with ori dregs
dregs from the production of soy sauce





Shibazuke しば漬け / 柴漬け　
Perilla pickles with eggplant
from Ohara,　Kyoto. Nishiri.
This is one of the three famous pickles from Kyoto.

Made from Kamo eggplants (sometimes cucumbers, turnips, rape blossoms or other vegetables), a special kind of red chirimen aka shiso perilla ちりめん赤紫蘇 that grows in the special climate of Ohara and a lot of salt.
The ingredients are put in large wooden barrels and covered with stones of the same weight to ripen. It ferments with lactobacillus to a sour pickle, that tasts great on white rice.
Doi Shibazuke Honpo 土井志ば漬本舗　is quite famous and has tours for tourists.

This kind of pickle has been introduced by the ambulant vendor ladies from Ohara (Oharame 大原女) to Kyoto and from there to the rest of Japan. They were carrying SHIBA brushwood, firewood, on their head to sell in town and used to give a package of this pickle to their clients.

This pickle was made famous in the area of Ohara in the late Heian period, when the daughter of Regent Taira no Kiyomori fled after the lost battle of Dan no Ura. She became a nun and lived in the little monastery Jakkoin (Jakkooin 寂光院) in Ohara. Kenrei Mon-In 建礼門院 grieved about the death of her little son and the villagers brought her these local vegetable pickles to cheer her up in the hot summer.
She had it prepared by her ladies in waiting at the monastery, who were dressed like the Oharame ladies are now. So the Oharame ladies have a long history.
. . . CLICK here for Oharame dressed ladies photos !


This once-pampered great lady Kenrei is said to have composed this poem in her hermit's hut:

Did I ever dream
That I would behold the moon
Here on the mountain --
The moon that I used to view
In the sky o'er the palace?

Taira no Tokuko, Empress Dowager Kenrei (建礼門院)


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sokusekizuke, sokuseki-zuke 即席漬け "impromptu pickles"
Often made from cabbage or cucumbers or shalottes.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Schnell gemachte Tsukemono


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Takuan, takuanzuke 沢庵漬 (たくあんづけ)
Takuan radish pickles
kigo for winter
Named after priest Takuan Soho, who "invented" their making.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
It comes in various flavors, like umeboshi or red hot peppers.

Takuwan, is a popular traditional Japanese pickle. It is made from daikon radish. In addition to being served alongside other types of tsukemono in traditional Japanese cuisine, takuan is also enjoyed at the end of meals as it is thought to aid digestion.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !


Takuan Sōhō (沢庵 宗彭, 1573–1645) was a major figure in the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. He is known for his excentric life.
It is stated that Takuan advised and befriended many persons, from all social strata of life.
Some of those include:

Miyamoto Musashi (kenjutsu swordmaster)
Matsudaira Dewa no Kami (Daimyo)
Ishida Mitsunari (Daimyo)
Kuroda Nagamasa (Christian Daimyo)
Yagyū Munenori (Daimyo and kenjutsu master, head of Yagyū Shinkage-ryū style of swordsmanship) - Takuan's writings to kenjutsu master, Lord Yagyū Munenori, are commonly studied by contemporary martial artists.
Go-Mizunoo (abdicated Japanese Emperor)
Tokugawa Iemitsu (Shogun)
Itō Ittōsai (swordsman)
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !


Zen monks are supposed to eat their slices of Takuan radish without making any noise. There are usually two slices on the plate, used to carefully clear out the bowls after eating and then munching the Takuan in silence.
If you want to know the secret of eating Takuan in silence, contact me. :o) !

dinner time -
the silence of monks
munching takuan

DAIKON . Radish and radish dishes

The Unfettered Mind. by Takuan Soho


Regional TAKUAN specialities


quote
Nanshuji Temple, Osaka 南宗寺 Nanshuuji
A temple of Rinzaishu’s Daitokuji branch built south of Shukuin in the 3rd year of Koji Period (1557) by Nagayoshi Miyoshi, who ruled Sakai as local governor of Izumi/Kawachi, in memorial of his deceased father, Motonaga. The temple burned down during the Summer Battle of Osaka, and was rebuilt in the 3rd year of Genna Period (1617) by Takuan-osho, the resident priest of the temple, in Minamihatago-cho where it remains today.
... It is said that the great masters of tea ceremony such as Sen no Rikyu and Takeno Jo-o trained here ...
source : www.osaka-info.jp

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Umeboshi 梅干 the most famous
dried pickled salty plums
kigo for all summer


. WASHOKU
Umeboshi 梅干 dried pickled salty plums 　
Salzpflaumen


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Making Japanese pickles

There are many kinds of pickles and they are served when eating rice and "ochazuke", which is rice flavored with various toppings and poured with green tea. They are also served when drinking green tea and alcoholic beverages.


Shiozuke
Shiozuke is salt pickling. This the easiest way of pickling. Slice vegetables, salt them and place them under a weight for varying lengths of time. The best-known shiozuke pickled for a long time is "umeboshi". Ichiyazuke,one-night pickles, is one of "shiozuke" which is made briefly. Shiozuke is also used as preliminary step to serve food.


Nukazuke
Make "nukadoko" (pickling bed) by mixing "nuka"(rice bran) , salt and water. Then add them dried kelp and dried chilies to increase the flavor. Vegetables are buried in "nukadoko" and are kept there for varying lengths of time. You can eat it a couple of days later but the best "nukazuke" is the one which are buried for several months. Nukazuke are rich in vitamins.
The best-known examples are takuan (pickled Japanese radish) and kyuuri no nukazuke (pickled cucumber)

Read also: hinona kabu nukazuke
Here’s a little Zen of Nukazuke meditation for you…
When you mix the nukadoko and turnips take a moment to observe the wonderful colors that present and shift and fold; feel the mixture as the earth which has nurtured both the turnips and the rice grains; in the warmth you can feel the sunshine that ripened the green leaves and brought the rice grain to fruition; in the moisture you can feel the rain that fell upon the rice and turnip and gave them life; as you breath in and breath out in rhythm with your hands, you can feel your body relax….
Cate Kodo Juno
source : kyotofoodie.com . Pickling Hinona Turnips 日野菜蕪 ぬか漬け


Shooyuzuke Soy Sauce pickles
Pickle vegetables with salt, soy sauce, sugar and vinegar. It is possible to preserve vegetables for a long time. "Yamagoboo no shouyuzuke" (pickled burdock) and "fukujinzuke" (pickled 7
kinds of vegetables such as Japanese radish, eggplant etc., chutneylike pickles) are examples of "shouyuzuke".


Misozuke
Add sake to "miso" (fermented soybean paste) and pickle vegetables with them. Misozuke is originated with the fact that farmers buried salted vegetables when when they make "miso"
for their families.


Kasuzuke
"Sakekasu" is remains of the rice when making "sake" or "mirin", sweet rice wine for seasoning. A pickling bed is made by mixing "sakekasu", sugar and salt. Pickle vegetables, fish and meat. It has sweet taste and the best-know example is "narazuke"


Koojizuke
Pickle vegetables with malted rice. It can't be preserved for a long time. One of the famous "koojizuke" is "bettarazuke".

Bettarazuke (べったら漬) "sticky pickles"
from Tokyo


Karashizuke
A pickling bed is made of "sakekasu" and mustard. Pickle salted vegetables in the bed. A famous "karashizuke" is "karashi-nasu" using eggplants.
karashi renkon 辛子れんこん lotus roots with mustard
From Kumamoto
daikon karashizuke 大根からし with radish
kyuuri karashizuke きゅうりからし漬け with cucumbers
piiman karashizuke ピーマンからし漬け with bellpeppers (paprika)
shiitake karashizuke 椎茸からし漬け with shiitake mushrooms
. WASHOKU
Karashizuke からし漬け pickles with mustard 　




Suzuke
Vinegar pickling. Beni-shooga (pickled red gingers) and rakkyo (pickled scallions) are the best-know examples of "suzuke".

source : ytoshi.cool.ne.jp



Melon Pickles
Japanese LINK : 漬け瓜（越瓜　本瓜）　夕顔　とうがん


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Worldwide use


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Things found on the way


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HAIKU

Kobayashi Issa

梅干と皺くらべせんはつ時雨
umeboshi to shiwa kurabesen hatsu shigure

comparing my wrinkles
with the pickled plums...
first winter rain

"Pickled plum" (umeboshi) is an idiom denoting an old wrinkled woman



福豆や福梅ぼしや歯にあはぬ
fuku mame ya fuku umeboshi ya ha ni awanu

lucky beans
lucky pickled plums...
yet no teeth

Issa has no teeth left with which to chew these end-of-year treats.

Tr. David Lanoue


ich vergleiche meine Falten
mit einer Salzpflaume ...
erster kalter Regen
Tr. Gabi Greve


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物言はぬ独りが易し胡瓜もみ　
mono iwanu hitori ga yasushi kyuuri momi

so good to be alone
with no need to talk . . .
kneading salted cucumbers
Tr. Gabi Greve

Abe Midorijo 阿部みどり女 (1886 - 1980)


この宮の我も氏子よ札納
. kono miya no ware mo ujiko yo fuda osame .


keichitsu ya yoji no gotoku ashi narashi

yume no ato oute hare nari sawayaka ni

MORE about Midorijo : thegreenleaf.co.uk/hp/women


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Related words

***** Gourd Pickles

***** WASHOKU : Tsukemono Pickles

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Tofu toofu

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Bean curd (tofu, toofu, dofu)

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: Topic
***** Category: Humanity

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Explanation
Some tofu dishes come as kigo.

WASHOKU ... SEASONAL DISHES SAIJIKI



As a goroawase pun with numbers, since 1992, October 2 is

too fu no hi　十二の日 / 豆腐の日 day of tofu



Every month on the 12th 十二 is also day of tofu. 毎月12日
A pun with the pronounciation TO (10) and FU 2.

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Tofu, also Tōfu (豆腐) (the Japanese Romaji spelling toofu), doufu (the Chinese Pinyin spelling often used in Chinese recipes) or bean curd (the literal translation), is a food of Chinese origin, made by coagulating soy milk, and then pressing the resulting curds into blocks. There are many different varieties of tofu, including fresh tofu and tofu that has been processed in some way. Tofu has very little flavor or smell on its own, so it can be used either in savory or sweet dishes, and is often seasoned or marinated to suit the dish.

The production of tofu from soy milk is similar to the production of cheese from milk, although some tofu is made by processing non-soy products, such as almonds or black beans. The byproduct of the process is soy pulp (also called okara in Japanese).

Tofu originated in ancient China, but little else is known about the origins of tofu and its method of production. Tofu and its production technique were subsequently introduced into Korea, then Japan during the Nara period (late eighth century). It also spread into other parts of East Asia as well. This spread likely coincided with the spread of Buddhism as it is an important source of proteins in the religion's vegetarian diet.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !

. Food vendors in Edo .

toofuya とうふ屋　/ 豆腐屋 tofu makers and vendors
- see also below the haiku by Issa - tôfu ya

Some shops made only Tofu and the customers came to their shop to buy.
Others employed vendors (salesmen) to walk the streets.


toofu uri 豆腐売り vendor of Tofu
They walked the streets three times a day, to bring Tofu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This was necessary in a time without refrigerator.

豆腐屋は時計のように廻る也
toofuya wa tokei no yoo ni mawaru nari

the Tofu seller
works all day round
like a clock

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abura-age, abura age, aburaage あぶら(あ)げ (油揚げ)
thin slices of deep-fried bean curd
Inari Sushi (inarizushi いなり寿司)
In Northern Japan it is often 4 cm thick and called
aburage あぶらげ - 油揚げ
It was a special treet for festival days and then a deal was made. People would drink a sip of sake together and eat one large aburage with some soy sauce and spices.
janbpoo aburage ジャンボあぶらげ extra large abura-age

atsu age, atsuage, atsu-age 厚揚げ thick slices, about 2 cm thick
They can be cut into triangles.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

agedashidoofu, agedashi tofu 揚げだし豆腐 grilled tofu in broth
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
frittierter Tōfu in leicht gewürzter Soße

annin doofu (杏仁豆腐) Annin almond tofu
a sweet desert preparation, Chinese origin. Often with fruit.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

awayukidoofu, awayuki toofu 泡雪豆腐 . あわゆき豆腐 tofu with beaten eggwhite
Homemade Curd Dumplings
Okazaki Sweetcake, speciality of Ozaki, Mikawa (Nagoya)

ganmodoki　がんもどき　（雁擬き), ganmo
deep-fried bean curd containing bits of various kinds of vegetables.
tofu-fritters. also called hiryoozu ひりょうず。
Eaten sipped in soy sauce and grated ginger, or put in the oden hodgepodge.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

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Giondoofu　祇園豆腐　Gion Tofu

- quote -
During the Edo period, the most famous food of Kyoto was Gion Tofu. Gion Tofu is a skewered roasted tofu. And serve with Shiro Miso paste (White sweet Miso paste) to dip the roasted Tofu. Originally had another name but the place was around Yasaka shrine (near Gion area), tourist called as Gion Tofu.
- source : kyojapan.com/gourmet -


CLICK for more ukiyo-e about Tofu !

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haiboshi doofu, shimeokabe 火干し豆腐, しめおかべ
tofu is warpped in a cloth and put into ashes over night to dry. Made in a temple in Kyoto 小金井の三光院

hiyayakko, hiya yakko 冷奴 "cold guy", "kalter Bursche"
square pieces of cold tofu, eaten with soy sauce and leek circles in summer
yakko was the name of the lowest social position in the Edo society, the simple workers of a daimyo household. They were the chuugen 中間（ちゅうげん）」 or orisuke 折助（おりすけ. yakko, most probably derived from the "child of the house", member of the household, ie no ko 家つ子 iekko. They came from poor farming families and did hard labour, carrying the luggage of the lord during traveling. They used to wear simple square jackets (hanten) with a square as decoration, kuginuki mon 釘抜紋.
. . . CLICK here for 釘抜紋 Photos !
So food that was cut in a square like this was called "yakko ni kiru" 奴に切る.
. . . Yakko Daruma Dolls


iburidoofu　いぶり豆腐　smoked tofu 燻り豆腐
toofu no kunsei 豆腐の燻製 smoked tofu
from Gifu and other prefectures


iridoofu いりどうふ【煎り豆腐／炒り豆腐】 tofu crushed by hand, then roasted. Small cut vegetables can be added, like carrots, kikurage, shiitake mushrooms.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

. ishidoofu 石豆腐 "stone tofu" 　
from the Iya valley, Tokushima. 祖谷豆腐 Iya Tofu


kinugoshi きぬごし(絹漉し) "silken strained tofu"
smooth fine-grained tofu
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
durch ein Seidensieb passierter Tofu


momen doofu 木綿豆腐 "cotton" tofu
firm and rather rough consistency
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
"Baumwoll-Tofu", harter Tofu

okara おから　オカラ　Okara
Rückstände bei der Tofu-Produktion
okara doonatsu オカラどーなっつ / オカラドーナツ
from Aichi prefecture.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

rokujoo doofu 六浄豆腐 salted tofu shavingsWater is reduced by using sea salt, then dried and shaved. Shavings are kept in vinegar. Monks from Dewa brought this to Kyoto. Still produced in Yamagata.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

Saga 佐賀県 tofu dishes from Saga prefecture
... godoofu ごどうふ tofu made with kuzu vines
... ishiwaridoofu 石割豆腐 "tofu that can split a stone"
... zarudoofu ザル豆腐 / ざる豆腐 tofu in a bamboo basket
... Ureshino Onsen Tofu　嬉野温泉豆腐 tofu with hot spring water

Saga doofu 嵯峨豆腐 from Kyoto, Arashiyama

shimi-doofu 凍み豆腐 / 凍り豆腐 frozen tofu
Gefriergetrockneter Tôfu.
Wird auch als kôri-dôfu oder kôya-dôfu Kooya Doofu 高野豆腐 bezeichnet.
Koya San in Wakayama 高野山 　
. . . CLICK here for Koya Dofu Photos !

Tochio-age 栃尾あげ fried tofu from Tochio
Niigata prefecture.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

toofu chikuwa 豆腐竹輪 / 豆腐ちくわ Tofu Chikuwa
Tofu and ground fish meat is mixed and grilled.
Produced in Tottori.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

toofu pan, toofupan 豆腐パン bread with tofu, Tofu-Bread
otoofupan, o toofu pan お豆腐パン
Either in the form of a bread of buns with tofu inside or tofu in the dough.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Reference

toofu shinjo 豆腐しんじょ Tofu balls with vegetables
Pounded tofu with hijiki seaweed or spinach leaves, wrapped in deep fried tofu
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Tofu-Ball mit Gemüse und hijiki-Algen

toofu suiitsu 豆腐スィーツ sweets with Tofu
In Kurashiki a kind of handmade tofu ball is served with fruit and whipped cream.
..... 黒豆玉豆腐スィーツ

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toofugushi 豆腐串 skewer with tofu pieces
a kind of tofu dengaku with miso paste
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

Dengaku 田楽 dance and food Tofu Dengaku

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toofu kamaboko　豆腐蒲鉾　／豆腐かまぼこTofu is broken into small pieces and dried, some flavorings added and then rolled in a sudare to be simmered. Made in Akita.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

toofukan 豆腐羹 toofu broth
Water is all pressed out to make it firm. Then simmered long time in soy sauce with low heat. Tasts like cheese. Made in Kyoto.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

toofuyoo 豆腐よう Tofu with awamori liquorfrom Okinawa.
Tofu is mixed with awamori rice liquor and rice kooji to ferment.
Tasts good with beer.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

toonyuu 豆乳 Tonyu, soy milk, soymilk
. . . . . toonyuu doonatsu 豆乳ドーナツ doughnuts with soymilk
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

tsuto doofu つと豆腐 tofu squeezed in bamboo matsTofu is wrapped in a bamboo mat 竹づと and squeezed. Then heated. Keeps long, can be used for boild dishes.
From Fukushima prefecture.
In Ibaraki, 藁づと is used or 菰で包み(こも豆腐 komo doofu).
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

. unohana, u no hana 卯の花 scrambled tofu dregs .
like deutzia blossoms

yakidoofu やきどうふ (焼き豆腐) grilled tofu
yakidofu, yaki toofu, yaki tofu 焼き豆腐 momen firm tofu which is slightly browned on both sides by broiling.
For the New Year, nishime, ni-shime 煮しめ is prepared, a yakidofu piece cooked in sweatened soy sauce together with other ingredinets.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
. . . CLICK here for NI-SHIME Photos !
gebratener oder gegrillter Tofu.


Yuba 湯葉／湯波／油皮
Fresh or dried layers of the skin of soybean milk.
Speciality of Kyoto and Nikko. Often used in the vegetarian quisine of the monks.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Haut auf der erhitzten Soyabohnenmilch

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Worldwide use

Soyabohnenquark

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Things found on the way

hari kuyoo 針供養
memorial service for used pins and needles
Performed at some temples during wintertime. On this day, the seamstresses take a holiday and bring their old needles to the temple to stick them in a piece of tofu.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !

In times of old, fishermen used this day to appease the Sea Gods by sinking broken fishhooks onto the ocean bed. The tradition is now a refined ceremony practiced by housewives, clothmakers and even fashion students, who take a day off work to show their gratitude. They do this by placing their old needles and pins into a Japanese sambo navel orange, while their broken counterparts are stuck into some tofu or konnyaku jelly - a somewhat bizarre, though well-respected, memorial service for little bits of metal.
source : 　guides.hotelbook.com

. Hari kuyo 針供養 KIGO 　

Toofu saijiki 豆腐歳時記 Tofu during the seasons
- reference source : lionandmole.hatenablog.com -

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HAIKU

Matsuo Basho and Tofu

影待ちや菊の香のする豆腐串
kagemachi ya kiku no ka no suru toofugushi

waiting for sunrise ...
the tofu skewer smells
of chrysanthemums

or

celebrating till sunrise ...
the tofu stick smells
of chrysanthemums
Tr. Gabi Greve
It seems more natural to inverse the Japanese, which has the tofu skewers as the last line.

Written in the ninth month of 1693, Genroku 6, 元禄6年9月
At the home of Taisui 岱水.

kagemachi 影待, lit. "waiting for shadows", refers to a custom of the Edo period to invite guests on an auspicious day of January, May or September for a good meal to stay awake all night and wait for the sunrise. In September, you could sit in a chrysanthemum garden and enjoy the flower exhibitions.

Also called himachi 日待ち, waiting for the sun.

sunrise party
the mum's scent skewered
by the tofu kabob

Matsuo Basho, September of the year Genroku 6
Tr. Reichhold

Reichhold's comment:
On certain days in January, May, and September, it was customary to invite friends and customers to all-night parties of eating and drinking together in order to worship the sunrise. White squares of tofu were skewered on green slivers of bamboo, brushed with miso, and heated over open fires. The smoky flavor was similar to the fragrance of chrysanthemums.

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source :　tohudokoroogawa

色づくや豆腐に落ちて薄紅葉
irozuku ya toofu ni ochite usumomiji

they are starting to change color ...
a slightly red maple leaf
falls on my tofu

Written in 延宝5年, Basho age 34.
The whiteness of the Tofu is stressed by the color of the fallen leaf.

MORE - - -food haiku by
. Matsuo Basho 松尾芭蕉 - Archives of the WKD .

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. Kobayashi Issa 小林一茶 in Edo .

Tofu-Haiku by Kobayashi Issa

楢の葉の朝からちるや豆腐桶
nara no ha no asa kara chiru ya tôfu oke

an oak leaf this morning
fallen
in the tofu tub



とうふ屋が来る昼顔が咲にけり
tôfu ya ga kuru hirugao ga saki ni keri (toofuya)

the tofu vendor comes--
the day flower
blooms

Shinji Ogawa notes humor in this haiku. He writes, "The phrase, 'tofu vendor coming,' should modify the day flower.
The haiku means: the day flowers of the tofu vendor's coming have bloomed. In Edo, those vendors came around like clockwork. People could tell, so it is said, the time of day, by the vendors. The day flower, as the name suggests, blooms at a specific time of day. Issa humorously applied this saying to create a comical haiku."

とうふ屋と酒屋の間を冬篭
tôfu ya to sakaya no ai wo fuyugomori

between tofu shop
and the tavern...
my winter seclusion

Tr. David Lanoue - MORE TOFU HAIKU by ISSA

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- - - - - Tr. and Comments by Chris Drake:

おそ起や蚊屋から呼るとうふ売
oso oki ya kaya kara yobaru toofu uri

sleeping late --
the tofu seller calls to me
from my mosquito net

This hokku was written in the 6th month (July) of 1818, when Issa was living back in his hometown. Issa and the tofu seller must know each other well, so the tofu seller must have been surprised when Issa didn't come out to buy some fresh tofu when he went by loudly singing out the short phrase or song he sings each morning as he walks through Issa's hometown with containers of tofu hanging from each end of a pole over his shoulder. Curious or perhaps concerned, the seller has apparently come inside Issa's house and into his sleeping room, where he now stands beside the large mosquito net, calling out to Issa in his normally loud voice. This time Issa definitely wakes up!

It was common for villagers to go inside each other's houses, probably saying a brief "Excuse me!" as they went in, and Issa's wife has presumably opened the door earlier, when she got up, though she must be out when the tofu seller goes by. This custom is still alive in many parts of rural Japan and partially alive even in the rural town outside Tokyo in which I live.
My neighbors often come inside the front door and call out something, and the man who comes around selling kerosene for space heaters comes inside and calls out to me if I don't go inside when he drives by. Sometimes I forget and lock the front door during the daytime, and my neighbors then ask me if I'm being unfriendly, though they try to understand, since I'm a foreigner.


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春惜む宿や日本の豆腐汁
haru oshimu yado ya Nihon no toofujiru

lamenting spring
in this lodgings ... the tofu soup
of Japan

Masaoka Shiki正岡子規

He wrote this for his uncle Kato Shuson, who stayed in Belgium in the year Meiji 35. They remember the delicious leek miso-soup of Negishi.


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The haiku poet Kita Masao 喜多牧夫 started off as a tofu maker and wrote many haiku about the subject, collected in the book

toofubue 豆腐笛 flute of the tofu vendor

The four seasons and the people of Obuse.
信州小布施の四季と人
He was born in 1909 in Obuse, Niigata, where his family lost a fortune when the silk prices dropped.
He died in 1993, May 12, at age 83.

. . . CLICK here for Photos !

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Claudia Cadwell, Facebook, June 2009
Thanks, Claudia!

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Related words

***** . WASHOKU - Favorite Tofu Dishes of Edo . 　

***** WASHOKU : INGREDIENTS

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. Toofuu Jizoo 豆腐地蔵 Tofu Jizo Legends .

. Tōfu kozō 豆腐小僧 Tofu Kozo, The Tofu Boy .
Tôfukai 豆腐買いTôfu Buyer
- - - - - Legends with tofu 　豆腐伝説　- - - - -

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[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]
- #toofu #tofu #beancurd -
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Shooyu ... Soy Sauce

[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO TOP . ]
. Legends about Soy Sauce .
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Soy Sauce , Sojasoße, Sojasauce

***** Location: Japan
***** Season: Various, see below
***** Category: Humanity

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Explanation

making soy sauce, shooyu tsukuru
醤油作る (しょうゆつくる)
hishio tsukuru 醤作る (ひしおつくる)
kigo for late summer


© PHOTO :　shokubunka

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Soy sauce is maybe the most important item on the Japanese table. Little flasks and containers to poor your own (see below) are the colorful addition to any table setting.

Many of my Japanese friends carry a bottle of their favorite brand when they travel abroad, and some even when they travel in Japan.


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hishio is the base of soy sauce, prepared from fermented beans, rice, wheat, 麹 kooji yeast and other ingredients. It was a special food in the Heian period for the aristocracy, and only later became more widespread.
Saltwater is mixed to the soybeans and kooji to subpress unwanted bacteria and enhance the good bacteria. The mix is left standing for about one year before consumption.
Eaten like this on plain white rice it is a delicacy.
Today still prepared by hand in Choshi, Chiba prefecture.
醤司 : 室井 房治

. Kōjimachi (麹町 / 麴町 Kojimachi district in Edo .


History of Soy Sauce in Japan

Soy Beans as Kigo


kokubishio 穀醤（こくびしお) fermented grains and beans
kusabishio 草醤（くさびしお） fermented vegetables
shishibishio 肉醤（ししびしお） fermented meat
uobishio 魚醤（うおびしお）fermented fish

These are the Chinese predecessors since more than 2500 years ago of our HISHIO.
It was prepared in the imperial office for "fermentated food" 醤院（ひしおつかさ）, hishiotsukasa.


Kinzanji miso 径山寺（きんざんじ）味噌 was brought back to Japan by the Zen monk Kakushin 覚心（かくしん） in 1254 and marked the beginning of miso making. Some farmers from Kishu village of Yuasa 湯浅の村 prepared the miso as he told them and found some liquid at the bottom of the barrels, they called tamari shooyu たまりしょうゆ.

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Soy sauce (US) or soya sauce (Commonwealth) is a fermented sauce made from soybeans (soya beans), roasted grain, water and salt. Soy sauce was invented in China, where it has been used as a condiment for close to 2,500 years. In the 7th century, Buddhist monks introduced soy sauce into Japan where it is known as shoyu. The Japanese word "tamari" is derived from the verb "tamaru" that signifies "to accumulate," referring to the fact that tamari was traditionally produced as the liquid byproduct that was produced during the fermentation of miso. Japan is the leading producer of tamari. Soy sauce is used widely in East and Southeast Asian cuisines and appears in some Western cuisine dishes.

Authentic soy sauces are made by mixing the grain and/or soybeans with yeast or kōji (麹, the mold Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae) and other related microorganisms. Traditionally soy sauces were fermented under natural conditions, such as in giant urns and under the sun, which was believed to contribute to additional flavours. Today, most of the commercially-produced counterparts are fermented under machine-controlled environments instead.

Although there are many types of soy sauce, all are salty and earthy-tasting brownish liquids used to season food while cooking or at the table. Soy sauce has a distinct basic taste called umami by the Japanese (鮮味, 鮮味 lit. "fresh taste").
Umami was first identified as a basic taste in 1908 by Kikunae Ikeda of the Tokyo Imperial University. The free glutamates which naturally occur in soy sauce are what give it this taste quality.



Koikuchi (濃口)
Originating in the Kantō region, its usage eventually spread all over Japan. Over 80% of the Japanese domestic soy sauce production is of koikuchi, and can be considered the typical Japanese soy sauce. It is produced from roughly equal quantities of soybean and wheat. This variety is also called kijōyu (生醤油) or namashōyu (生しょうゆ) when it is not pasteurized.

Usukuchi (淡口) "thin soy sauce"
Light-colored soy sauce. Particularly popular in the Kansai region of Japan, it is both saltier and lighter in color than koikuchi. The lighter color arises from the usage of amazake, a sweet liquid made from fermented rice, that is used in its production.

Tamari (たまり)
Produced mainly in the Chūbu region of Japan, tamari is darker in appearance and richer in flavour than koikuchi. It contains little or no wheat; wheat-free tamari is popular among people eating a wheat free diet. It is the "original" Japanese soy sauce, as its recipe is closest to the soy sauce originally introduced to Japan from China. Technically, this variety is known as miso-damari (味噌溜り), as this is the liquid that runs off miso as it matures.

Shiro (白, "white")
A very light colored soy sauce. In contrast to "tamari" soy sauce, "shiro" soy sauce uses mostly wheat and very little soybean, lending it a light appearance and sweet taste. It is more commonly used in the Kansai region to highlight the appearances of food, for example sashimi.
Saishikomi (再仕込, twice-brewed)
This variety substitutes previously-made koikuchi for the brine normally used in the process. Consequently, it is much darker and more strongly flavored. This type is also known as kanro shoyu (甘露醤油) or "sweet shoyu".
Gen'en (減塩)
Low-salt soy sauces also exist, but are not considered to be a separate variety of soy sauce, since the reduction in salt content is a process performed outside of the standard manufacture of soy sauce.
Amakuchi (甘口)
Called "Hawaiian soy sauce" in those few parts of the US familiar with it, this is a variant of "koikuchi" soy sauce.

All of these varieties are sold in the marketplace in three different grades according to how they were produced:

Honjōzō hōshiki (本醸造 方式)
Contains 100% naturally fermented product.
Shinshiki hōshiki (新式 方式)
Contains 30-50% naturally fermented product.
Tennen jōzō (天然 醸造)
Means no added ingredients except alcohol.

All the varieties and grades may be sold according to three official levels of quality:

Hyōjun (標準)
Standard pasteurized.
Tokkyū (特級)
Special quality, not pasteurized.
Tokusen (特選)
Premium quality, usually implies limited quantity.

Other terms unrelated to the three official levels of quality:

Hatsuakane (初茜)
Refers to industrial grade used for flavoring, powder.
Chōtokusen (超特選)
Used by marketers to imply the best.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !



shiroshooyu ... しろしょうゆ (白醤油) "white soy sauce"
„Weiße Sojasoße“, aus Weizen. Spezialität von Aichi.


shooyu sofuto しょうゆソフトクリーム Softice with soysauce flavor
醤油ソフトクリーム
. . . CLICK here for Photos !
Softeis mit Sojasauce



ISHIRI いしり　fish soy sauce from the Noto peninsula, Ishikawa
魚醤油


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Engelbert Kaempfer
mentions the taste of food from time to time. Thus receiving a meal in the shogunal chambers he writes with regard to shooyu:

"Next to that stood a porcelain bowl with a few slices of raw salmon, marinated or pickled, with a little brown soup like soy, but not as strong, rather sweeter, ...."
(, p. 411; Kaempfer uses the word "Soje".)

Elsewhere (p. 68), explaining the use of soy beans he mentions miso "which in cooking takes the place of butter" and also shooyu (here "Soeju") "which is used as marinade or sauce to flavor food, and is served at every meal. It is exported as far as Holland."

The production of miso and shooyu he explains in more detail in Fasc. V of his Latin work (pp. 839-40).
This has been put on the internet by various universities. One site is
http://gdz.sub.uni-goettingen.de/dms/load/img/?PPN=PPN487493915

source : pmjs January 2011


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awasejooyu 　合わせ醤油　soy sauce mixed with ...

donburimono no tsuyu つゆ for rice bowls
with sake, mirin, and dashi

goma jooyu ごま醤油 with sesame
and some sugar

karashi jooyu からし醤油 with mustard
and dashi and a bit of sugar

ponzu jooyu ポンズ醤油
soy sauce with juice of citrus fruits


shooyu ame, shooyu-ame 醤油飴 しょうゆあめ hard candy with soy sauce flavor
Bonbons mit Sojasauce-Geschmack / 醤油の飴
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


sukiyaki no warishita すき焼きの割り下 for sukiyaki
with mirin, dashi, sugar and a bit of sake
shitaji 下地 was the original name for soy sauce, which was then diluted (wari) with dashi and other ingredients. wari shitaji 割り下地, became warishita.
WASHOKU
warishita in Kanto and Kansai


tentsuyu 天つゆ for tenpura
with mirin and dashi

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ori 澱 (おり) dregs, sediment when making soy sauce
It is still quite rough and not for sale.
Local houswifes and neighbours of a soy sauce producer can get a bottle full to make special pickles.

orizuke おり漬け pickles with ori dregs
. . . CLICK here for Photos !



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The best online information

SOY info center



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Worldwide use


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Things found on the way

Soy Sauce dispensers with Daruma
Sojasoßenfläschchen, 醤油差しshooyu sashi



Daruma Museum Japan






. . . CLICK here for more Photos !


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HAIKU

soy sauce stains
on my silk tie -
careless pleasures

Mike Garofalo
Saba Maki, autumn of 1999


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Related words

***** Soy Beans as Kigo
soya- sose Soyabohnen, soyasosse

***** Kanro-Ni, sweet simmering

***** Soy Sauce Pudding / shooyu purin 小豆島醤油プリン

WASHOKU : INGREDIENTS

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soyasauce - #shoyu #soysauce -
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